THE GREAT USUMACINTA RIVER ADVENTURE
(or how I spent my summer winter vacation)

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Chacalá

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The Chacalá is a river that enters the Usumacinta some mile or two upriver from the Canyon San Jose. It is the largest that we encountered and certainly the most interesting. Its water, in contrast to the Usumacinta, is clearer. And with a low water level there were many gentle pools formed by the rocks and boulders where you could laze away the heat of day.

We hiked about a mile or so upriver. We left two large bundles of used clothes for the villagers nearby. This was a gift for their help the year bfore. We weren't worried that they would not get them. The area, again, is so remote that only the local villagers would pass by before anyone else. However remote we thought it was, we did run into some of their cattle which was eerie and inconcruous in the rainforest.

We found ourselves on the downriver side of the confluence. Not where we wanted to be but the current from the entering Chacalá pushed the paddle boat to the Guatemala side of the Usuamcinta. The beach we wanted to land at was upriver but the paddle boat pulled onto shore downriver and there was no going back. The currents were just that swift and strong to preclude it. The problem was that there were no beaches large enough to accommodate the group from that point virtually all the way to the other end of the Canyon of San Jose. Our Kayak expert was sent downriver and was able to find a small beach just a bit ahead of our present position. He was able to paddle back by skill and strength.

We set up camp for our last night on the river but the area was so small we put the communal kitchen in a stream that alternately ran wet and dry - probably the result of natural springs.

The other problem was that Willie was to join us for the final night and day. But we were not where he expected to find us. We sent another kayak as night fell to meet Willie at our original site. In the dark of night they found each other and Willie had to swim across the Chacala. To complicate matters, he came with a buddy. Wet and tired they arrived in camp in time for supper albeit in the pitch black of night.

In the morning as we were breaking camp, three men with rifles appeared. I suppose ten days earlier we would have all panicked. Not now. After a brief greeting it was discovered that they were from the village for which we left the bundles of clothes. We explained the gift in person and they thanked us and wished us well. We were now headed for the Canyon of San Jose.



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